Immersion VS. Invasion. The Ecuador Expat's most important choice.

Immersion versus Invasion.  That is the question. 

Gringo Invasion

 Do you come to Ecuador and abandon all of your lifelong traditions and cultural understandings, living amongst the locals like you were born here?  Or, do you come to Ecuador and hide amongst your own in your gated expat community, slowly assimilating into "Gringolandia"?

Such an important and trivial question requires calculated thought.  This question often raises thousands of other questions like:

• How fast can I learn Spanish in Ecuador?
• How do I learn about Ecuadorian Culture?
• Will I experience Culture Shock?
• Will I pay Gringo Prices in Ecuador?
• Ultimately, Will I be HAPPY in Ecuador?

I see this topic in discussion on many of the forums, groups, and chats associated with Living in Ecuador or Traveling to Ecuador, but often times I see more opinions than logical answers or even valuable opinionated insight.  People tend to want to live on one extreme or another.  Sounds a bit like politics doesn't it?

Some live for "total immersion", where they shun their entire culture and its existence, even developing a hatred for it.  Others live here for years and don't even take the time to learn how to say "Hola".  In my insightful opinion (at least I hope it is an insightful one) I believe both strategies ultimately lead to failure.

You see, No matter WHERE YOU GO, you ARE WHAT YOU ARE.  You can not escape it.  This is why total immersion will not work. 

You will miss the amenities you were accustomed to in your other world.  You will miss your family and it's traditions and customs.  You will even miss your drunk uncle.  If you choose the strategy of 100% immersion and denial of your gringo existence, the frustrations of "control alt deleting" many years of your settled ways will come back to haunt you.  You cannot simply come here and wash the Gringo or Yankee off of your body.  Believe it or not, most Native Ecuadorians would not expect you to either.

On the other hand, if you come to Ecuador and think you are going to start your own Little USA without contributing to the country, you are gravely mistaken.  I see the Chinese trying it right here from out my window, and they will fail also, if they don't learn the language and the customs.  The great news is that most of the Chinese I have met actually learned (or are trying to learn) Spanish.  I can not say the same for many of the gringos I have met.  Many of them are simply looking to huddle up with the other expats, search for English speaking dentists, doctors, lawyers, and everything else English to get anything accomplished.  That is fine and dandy when you just get here, but if you do not pick up the language and culture you will NOT survive more than 2 years.  You will find yourself lonely and in a state of depression mentally and financially from getting hit with those infamous "gringo prices".

So, with both strategies leaning to high chance of failure, WHAT DO YOU DO?

I propose that you meet in the middle.  Eat the hamburger at the restaurant that speaks English for dinner, but don't pass on the Yaguarlocro for lunch (More about Yaguarlocro here).  Buy that Rosetta Stone or take those Spanish Lessons, but don't forget what your family Christmas or Thanksgiving customs are.  Take a moment to make Ecuadorian friends and SHARE your customs with them as they will with you.  Ecuadorians do not bite, and despite what the State Department may tell you the majority of them are decent, intelligent, and happy to make friends.

I feel that if you approach Life in Ecuador with a strategy such as this, you will have a higher chance of being successful here.  All of the people I know who have made it here have made it through a conservative blend of invasion and immersion, and most of the people who have failed fell towards one extreme.

Carry this advice with a grain of salt, or like the golden ticket to enter Willy Wonka's factory.  I don't care.  But I assure you taking this perspective seriously will help in determining your quality of life here.

Mike
www.themiddleoftheworld.com
   

Mindo is freaking awesome.

Yea I said it.  Just like that.  Mindo is freaking awesome.  I love everything about it except for the mosquito population.  Don't sweat they are not the malaria infested "skeeters" you find in the Jungle.  But for some reason they like to attack in between your toes and your fingers so the itchiness can be unbearable without some type of cream.  BRING MOSQUITO REPELLENT TO MINDO. 

Mindo Ecuador is about a two hour drive from Quito.  The road trip itself is one of the most scenic I have seen.  You pass through multiple "micro-climates", such as Quito's cooler moist climate, into Pomasqui's dry arid southern california like climate, bypass the Middle of the World Monument (or stop by.. why not?), then finally spiral down hill on a freshly paved highway into the depths of Mindo's "Cloud Forest".  The roads are curvier than a pregnant Kardashian, so make sure you take it easy if you are driving. 

The road to Mindo Ecuador

What is a Cloud Forest?  Well, without getting all scientific, a Cloud Forest is a higher altitude "jungle" of sorts, which has a high level of diversity when it comes to animals and plant life along with birds.

Mindo is famous for it's birdwatching, (something I haven't personally participated in yet), river tubing (yes I've done this), zip lines over the forest canopy, along with hiking and delicious Chocolate.  You can also rent Quads and ride them around the Cloud Forest which is super fun.  If you are into riding quads be sure you check out "Xtreme Quadrones" in the center of town.  Tell Gonzalo and Nataly that Mike said Hello.  

Xtreme Quadrones in Mindo Ecuador.  Go rent a Quad.

They will be happy to show you how the use the Quads and guide you on where the best riding is.  You can also make arrangements ahead of time through my travel agency at www.themiddleoftheworld.com.  It is not a book online type thing, but it is important to contact me if you want to ride quads because sometimes the owners are in Quito, and it is hard to rent them when they are not there. 



  

Two words to describe Quito?

I have been thinking about this post for a while.  If I could use two words to describe Quito what would those two words be?  I drive around the city a lot and it is truly a complicated place to describe, especially with only two words. Then one day while I was dodging local drivers who treat red lights and other traffic laws more like suggestions it hit me like a bag of bricks.  Or maybe it was a bit more like a concrete slab.  Or possibly it was like a whole building being dropped on me.  Or maybe around 400 buildings, which is about how many buildings or other projects are currently being built in this city.

I then realized the best two words to describe Quito right now are "Under Construction". 

Everywhere I go in this city of progress I see a new high rise going up.  Every block is full of construction workers pile driving or laying concrete or putting the finishing touches on a beautiful new building.  It must be a sign of the economic times here because the construction business is BOOMING. 

On top of the 400 buildings going up, the new airport is finished (as you read from my previous blog).  Also a Subway system for the city is under construction, and the whole city has a big initiative to lay all of the electrical cables under ground.  Their is a park and a college being constructed where the old airport was so the land will not be wasted, and it seems like many of the home owners here are remodeling.

Something RIGHT is going on here and I don't know what it is, but I know I like it.  It is amazing to see so many projects!  I personally love architecture and even though none of these current projects are over 30 floors the artistic thought they put into the buildings here is amazing.  I look forward to seeing what Quito looks like 20 years from now.

I wouldn't be surprised if it looked something like this SkyscraperCity.com poster's post that you can view here:  http://www.skyscrapercity.com/showthread.php?t=351025 

Mike
www.themiddleoftheworld.com

Planking in the Middle of the World. HAHA! #Planking

Last Sunday I went to the Middle of the World Monument (the fake one so I hear).  I went to the museum and checked out all the stores selling souvenirs.  It was good times.  If you go to Ecuador this is a must see destination.  Being in the Middle of the World is an amazing experience and a definite on your to do list if you come here.

the Museum inside the monument features historical break downs of all of the various indigenous cultures that live here within Ecuador's borders.  It is well worth the entrance fee of $3.00.  I was with my wife's cousins Patricio and Janette (I hope I spelled her name correctly if not please tell me) and we were acting quite foolish so I decided to "Plank" The Middle of the World!

I think I was the first person to ever go Planking in the Middle of the World (vigorous Google search to determine this) so I hereby release the photos (credits to Patricio Garzon for taking).

There it is!  The first Planking of the Middle of the World!  I had to do another where my body was lined up with the Equator so here that is (also compliments of Patricio Garzon).

Patricio also planked the Middle of the World but I don't know if his plank officially counts because he was not face down.  If it doesn't count please leave a comment so I know he needs to get his ass back down here and do it right!

Good times I tell you.

By the way, there is a proposal to build the WORLDS TALLEST Building here in the Middle of the World.  When I was inside the current monument museum they had this model of the project on display:

It is supposed to be twice as tall at the world's current tallest in Dubai and cost $200,000,000 to build.  We will see if this actually happens.  I have my doubts but apparently it is a private investor looking to have this built.  I re posted an article about this on my blog so dig deeper if your interested.  

We also visited the Panecillo with them and got to enjoy a panoramic view of Quito from the top of this monument dedicated to the Virgin Panecillo.

Guess what, you can go inside this one also!  at the top you can see all of the Quito and this one is also worth the $1.00 it takes to get in.

I took a panoramic shot myself to share with you all but it is mega miniature because I don't want to make my whole blog 8 feet long on your screen. 

 Now that there is going to be no airport in the middle of the city and the height restrictions are lifted, I can imagine this skyline shot will be full of skyscrapers in 20 years. 

This was a great day full of amazing sites sounds and food!  I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant we went to because it was delicious.  But most importantly it was a day where I got to spend time with two people who made a big impact on my life here in Ecuador.  Patricio and Janette.  Thanks for all the fun times!


Mike

Hello all who are spying.

I promised Juan Carlos and Andreas from the Internations.org Quito get together that I would write again.  Apparently my blog is catching on.  Whoop Whoop!  Please don't scalp me if I misspelled your names.  Blame it on the Whiskey and Pisco Sours.  The Internations event was amazing and I met a lot of other expats and "extranjeros" who are walking in my shoes.

Last time I told you all that Centro Historico and the Mariscal District are night and day, and I was asked, "Why?".

Since you already know what Centro Historico is, (If you were paying attention to my last entry), I will focus today on Mariscal.  If you are from Los Angeles, or have been to Hollywood then Mariscal in my opinion is Ecuador's version of Hollywood minus the stars on the street,....Oh..  and that silver dude.

Mariscal is like grand central station for tourists who are traveling throughout Ecuador.  

There are more bars per square meter here than a prison yard, and I am not just talking about places to get a drink.  Every establishment has barred windows, barred doors, and barred ceilings.  Even the third floor of a building is barred up.  You can also get some of the most delicious Chocolate bars here that come from Mindo but that is another story.  I even saw barbwire wrapped around a tree.  Who is going to steal a tree?  Maybe they just don't want people to piss on it.   

Back to the other bars where we get belligerent, the choices are infinite in this gritty but festive district.  Every bar is packed from 2:00 PM till 2:00 AM on Wednesday Through Saturday.  Sunday is a day of rest and church here in Ecuador so you can not buy booze after 4:00 PM unless it is with a meal.  I would have snapped pictures of the Plaza Foch, but it is hard to hold a camera while you are two fisted and there is no way I am giving up one of my Ecuador's finest cervezas, Club Roja.

This beer is delicious and reminds of the many Newcastles I drank with my friend Isaac in the states. 

Some of my favorite places to go to here in Plaza Foch (Reina Victoria Y Mariscal Foch) are:

Q - Nice vibe and awesome happy hour
Finn McCool's - Authentic Irish Pub
Mulligan's -  To play Billiards and Foosball
Cafe Espanol - Ecuador's version of Starbuck's also located on every block
Restaurante Olympico - best Chinese "Chifa" EVER.
Playa Azuca - Good place to eat

There are also plenty of nightclubs but I am not the nightclub type so I will let you explore those on your own.

Mariscal is much more modern than Centro Historico and sometimes you forget you are in another country.  I guess you could say it is more "Westernized", or "Gringonized" or whatever you want to call it.  I snapped this Mariscal Skyline picture from the 11th floor of the Hotel Mercure.

Beautiful isn't it.  I love living here.  But be careful walking around here especially solo and at night.  As with any major city crime does exist so don't walk around like your in love.  Watch your surroundings and please don't wear your backpack on the front because that looks corny and doesn't protect you from someone who wants your stuff.  Besides, the backpack slashers and pickpocketing types tend to hang out in Centro Historico, so if you get robbed in Mariscal it will probably be with a knife or gun anyways.  Wearing your backpack on the front makes you look like a mark.  Your pretty much saying "Hey! I am a gringo tourist!  I probably have an Ipad in my backpack which is why I am so scared to wear it regularly!".  I see thousands of people with backpacks on and they get to their destination just fine.  Be aware, not paranoid, or you won't enjoy your time in Mariscal.  It is probably best to only bring what you need anyway.
 
They have beefed up security significantly in this area in the past few months.  Like I said before, don't walk around drunk and stupid by yourself especially at night and you will probably be fine.  Take a taxi instead of walking if it more than a few blocks.

the bottom line is, Orlando Florida is more dangerous than Quito, and I don't see American's thinking twice about visiting Disneyworld.  So... Tranquilo.  But do yourself a favor and leave the flower print Hawaii 5-0 ass button up shirt in your closet at home. 

I only write this because I read some other blog from some other Extranjero which basically said "don't come here you will definitely get robbed".  With that type of attitude you are probably right.  I suggest people like should read "The Secret", or at least watch the video. 

Anyhow, if you plan to come to Mariscal hit me up and I will show you around.  Speaking of which it is 11:00 and I still haven't had a beer yet, so I must go.

Ciao.

Mike
www.themiddleoftheworld.com

   

   

 



 
 

A Night Stroll in La Ronda

Last night we decided to head over to the Central Historico sector here in Quito and check out La Ronda.  I have read that Quito has the largest historical center in all of the Americas, but that never meant much to me until I had a chance to drive through it.

Blocks upon blocks of edificios historicos (historical buildings) unveiled before me as my "Compadre" Santiago drove up and down hill on cobblestone roads.  As soon as we entered this section of the city I truly felt we must have driven through a time warp.  The only modern day scars to this side of town's authenticity are the Trole and the stop lights.

We arrive and park in a parking garage, normally a modernized an unsightly structure in most cities.  But this one was somehow, someway integrated from an existing hollowed out old building, to blend in with the rest of history.  We cross under the cobblestone bridge and enter La Ronda.  Again, I was amazed by the authenticity of this near ancient passage.

Everything slowed down.  The people walking, the cars driving, even the smells of street cuisine being served on the corners seemed to slowly find their way into my nostrils.  I was getting hungry as of course I always am.  We let the kid run around and play while we simply digested our surroundings.  It felt comfortable, homely, and welcoming.  An exact opposite of the feeling you get walking through La Mariscal at night, which is the modern tourist trap and gringo landing destination here.  (We will talk more about that on another blog).

With all the smells of typical Ecuadorian cuisine cooking from the multitudes of restaurants, my stomach finally wrestled my brain, convincing me and my family in law to walk inside a cozy little spot to eat.  By cozy I mean that my head nearly touched the ceiling, and I am only 5 foot 8.  I would have taken pictures of the Seco De pollo and Empanadas I ate but I was too busy destroying them.  For any travelers who come I highly recommend Cafe Musica in La Ronda.  Since I devastated all the food before I could whip my camera out I snapped a picture of the menu. 

Cafe Musical Menu.  For some reason I could not rotate the picture sorry. 

After our meal and a few Pilsener's (one of the locally brewed cervezas), we took off and headed back towards the car.  It looked like the bars and live venues were just starting to wake up by the time we were leaving.  I am positive I will come back without the little one to see how this place kicks off la noche.

Off topic.  My Spanish is evolving faster than expected.  I am still looking for trabajo but I am learning fast that being "American" is not a get out of jail free card when it comes to finding decent work here.  you need to know the language to thrive here, PERIOD.  there is NO "Little USA", here in Quito, and you will probably get charged double and taken advantage of if you do not speak the language.  If you are going to come here and you don't know the language, travel with someone who does, or make arrangements to have a guide take you around.  If you are coming here to live make sure you know basic Spanish at a minimum.  There are a few Ecuadorians that speak English and will be happy to speak with you, but not many.